23 Confetti Quilt Tutorial.

Also known as the Circle Quilt Tutorial revamp :)  I wanted to update this tutorial since I wrote the old one before I knew very much about quilting.  You are still welcome to follow the old one if you want, but this new version is a little quicker and a little larger (finishes at about 45 x 52").

You will need:
Fat eighths of at least 14 different prints (I used 28 Dear Stella Confetti Dot prints here, 2 circles from each)
1 roll of fusible web (such as Heat 'n Bond Steam a Seam Lite or Pellon Wonder Under)
2 yds background fabric
3 yds backing fabric (or pieced 50 x 58" backing)
1/2 yd binding
Small rotary cutter and 5" circle template (download here)
OR
Fabric cutting machine (such as Accuquilt Go! Baby) and 5" circle die

Cutting Instructions:
1.  Cut a 7" x WOF strip from your background fabric.  While still folded in half, cut 3 7x7" squares (for a total of 6).  Continue until you have 56 - 7x7" squares.

2.  Cut 5.5" strips from the roll of fusible web.  Press interfacing to the wrong side of your fat eighths.

3a.  If you are using a rotary cutter and circle template, place circle template on top of the fabric and cut around the template.  You'll need 4 circles from each print if you are using 14 fabrics, or 2 circles from each print if you're using 28 fabrics.

3b.  If you are using a fabric cutting machine, cut out the interfaced 5-1/2" strip from each fat eighth.  Cut into 5-1/2" squares (4 squares if using 14 fabrics, 2 squares if using 28 fabrics).  Use fabric cutting machine to cut out circles from the squares you just cut.

Assembly Instructions:
4.  Fold background fabric squares in half and press.  Unfold, and fold in the other direction and press again to find the center of each block where the lines intersect.  Repeat this process on your circles (with the backing still applied to the fusible web) to find the center of each circle.  Peel off the paper backing from each circle, and align the center of the circle to the center of the background fabric.  Press to fuse the circle to the background fabric.  Repeat for all blocks.

5.  Use an applique stitch on your sewing machine to stitch the circles to the background fabric. Pull the thread tails to the back of the block and knot to secure.  Repeat for all blocks.

6.  Lay out your blocks in a 7 x 8 grid.  Label each block to keep them in order if you aren't using a design wall (A1, A2, B1, B2, etc).

7.  Piece each row of blocks together.  To do this, take two adjacent blocks (A1 and A2 for example), and place them right sides together.  A1 should be placed first, right side up.  A2 will be placed on top of A1, right side down.  Pin along the right edge of the blocks.  Sew blocks together along pinned edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.

8.  Open the blocks you just joined and place the next block in the row (A3 in this example) on top of the A2 block.  Pin along the right edge and sew blocks together using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Repeat until the entire row is joined, and then press the seams open.  Repeat for each row.
9.  Piece columns together.  To do this, take two adjacent rows (A and B for example) and place them right sides together.  A should be placed right side up, and B will be placed on top of A, right side down.  Pin along the bottom edge of the blocks, making sure that the seam intersections match up by pinning those in place.  Sew rows together with a 1/4" seam allowance.

10.  Open the rows you just joined and place the next row of blocks (C in this example) on top of the B row.  Pin along the right edge and sew rows together using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Repeat until all rows are joined, and then press the seams open.  You have a finished quilt top!

11.  Piece together a backing that is at least 50 x 58".
12.  Baste the quilt layers together.  Place backing on a large flat surface, right side down.  Then place quilt batting on top of the backing, making sure the layers are smooth.  Place quilt top on top of the batting, right side up.  Again, smooth out the layers as well as possible.  Place basting pins all over the quilt top to baste the layers together.  Start in the middle of the quilt and work your way out, smoothing the layers as you go.  I placed my pins in the center of each circle to avoid having to move them during the quilting process.

13.  Now it's time to quilt the layers together.  I like to quilt a grid that follows the outlines of the blocks.  Using a walking foot, and with your machine set to a straight stitch, sew a line about 1/4" from each of seam on both sides.  Continue along each seam.

14.  This part is optional, but you can also quilt around each circle as well.  This part takes awhile!
15.  Trim along the edges of the quilt to square it up.

16.  Cut five 2-1/2" binding strips.  Make binding and attach it to the quilt using you desired method (find my tutorial here).  Handstitch binding to the back of the quilt.

17.  Snuggle up with your new quilt!

56 studio spotlight.

Today I'm sharing my sewing room as part of the Studio Spotlight tour, hosted by Heather of The Sewing Loft and Jennifer of Ellison Lane Quilts!  Be sure to follow along with the series to see pretty studios and link up photos of your own creative space to win prizes!

Here's the view as you walk through the door.  My sewing/cutting table sits in the center of the room (my husband built it for me).

There's a large pegboard on the left wall, which holds a lot of my tools and supplies.  The pegboard was also built by my husband.  It's one of my favorite parts of the room!

Most of my stash sits underneath the pegboard, along with lots of bins and milkglass vases that hold additional supplies.

Solids, fat quarters, linen, home decor fabrics, and multicolored prints are stored on the right side.  The purple bin on top is my scrap bin.  Zippers, bag hardware, spools of thread and binding scraps are stored on top of this side.

I arrange most of my stash by color, and these are placed in separate shelves on the left side.  As you can see I'm running out of room for the black and whites!

My Anna Maria Horner stash has its own separate section in the middle, since I'm such a fan of hers and her prints all coordinate so well together.  Precuts and some WIPs live in the purple bins here, with thread and bobbins on top.  There's a little bench here too, but it's usually filled with quilts or fabric that I haven't put away yet.

Up on the pegboard I keep my embroidery thread and all of the sewing thread that I use the most (love Aurifil!), along with other things.

Rulers, scissors, and rotary cutters are all stored on the left side.

My Washi tape collection lives in the middle.  I use this tape for everything so it's easily accessible here, and the rainbow makes me happy!

Along the back wall is a mid-century dresser, which holds all of my paper, paints, and shipping supplies. 

The bins on top of the dresser keep all of my current WIPs sorted.  I am always working on a lot of projects at once so it's important for me to keep them all in order.

The antique drawers hold all of my sewing needles, pins, small rulers, and other little sewing related bits.

My flannel and voile stashes are also stored along this wall.

I recently added some shelves near the door to display some pretty things!

This antique papercutting is one of my favorites, and was a gift from my mother-in-law.

Most days you can find me sitting at my desk during the day.  Since I work from home most of the time, this is considered my office.  It's much better than sitting in a cube all day!

The pegboard above holds a lot of notes from friends, business cards, and random bits that inspire me.

Next to my desk is a printing station, with some of my most used camera gear in a tray on top of the printer.

Along the right wall is my design wall and ironing board, and a closet that is much less organized than the rest of the space!

My husband built the design wall too, using old hardwood planks to frame it out.

More fabric lives in the sewing table on this side.  I store all of my fabric sorted by collection here.  New fabric usually goes here first, and after I used a collection together I will sort it by color and move it to the other side of the room.  Vintage sheets and the destash pile also stay over here.

Here's the view from my sewing machine.  I sew on the cutting table, which is a little higher than a normal table, and isn't as hard on my back since I'm not hunched over.  I just pull the chair from my desk over and raise it up as high as it will go while I'm sewing.  Since it's directly across from the desk, I can just rotate the chair and wheel it over to move back and forth between the two.  It works great!

Here are a few more detail shots of the room. 

I hope you've enjoyed having a look through my sewing room.  Thanks for stopping by!  There are lots of other pretty studios left on the tour, so make sure to check them out!